Today, we left Cusco and made our way to Urubamba via taxi. Along the way, we saw where the Cusco locals live and shop - their markets are far cheaper than what we've seen anywhere else, and my guess is that those prices wouldn't be available to tourists. We also saw that for multi-unit dwellings, the top floor seemed to be open-air (i.e. windows with no glass) - presumably for residents to hang their clothes to dry?
We actually gained elevation from Cusco to a town called Chinchero (approximately 3800m above sea level) - where they grow a lot of the vegetables that are consumed by Cusco. The landscape changed from mountains without fields to mountains covered by fields of yellows and greens - many patchwork quilts sewn into the earth, filled with corn, barley, potatoes, carrots, etc. Our driver suggested a brief stop in Chinchero to visit textile makers so we were able to see how they take alpaca shearings, clean them, use a spindle to twist the wool into thread, and then dye the thread using a variety of plants and minerals. To witness the whole process, all the steps handed down through generations, using elements found in the natural environment (e.g. limestone), it made sense how we were able to see preserved textiles from hundreds of years ago in such good condition in the museums because of the durability instilled by ancestral techniques (some steps requiring months). Of course, we were strongly encouraged to purchase souvenirs - and it felt somehow more appropriate to buy from the makers themselves, to support them directly, though I'm sure we overpaid.
As we continued our journey to Urubamba, our driver informed us of ongoing construction in Chinchero to build a new international airport - which will make it even easier to access Machu Picchu. We saw so many buildings that looked new or were under construction - I guess to support the anticipated increase in tourism. Good thing we're visiting now - before things get even more expensive and crowded!
When we reached Urubamba, the first thing we noticed was the presence of many three-wheeled vehicles (mototaxis or tuk tuks) shuttling people around. Due to their smaller size (one wheel in front, two in the back), they can zoom confidently through the narrow streets, and can take up to two passengers at a time. They were much more common than regular taxis, probably due to affordability, for the driver as well as the passengers.
Once we had dropped off our things at the hotel, we headed outside of the Cercado neighbourhood in search of non-touristy food. We ended up at the ultra fancy Wayra ranch, to see how the "other side" lives - rooms here are more than USD$500 a night! In lieu of staying with the wealthy, we figured we could just dine with them for a meal - which turned out to be a really fun experience. We ate on a massive patio, facing the mountains, and were even provided entertainment in the form of Peruvian Paso horse riding demonstrations and Marinera dancers. The food was also exactly what I had hoped to find - using fresh, local, seasonal ingredients to produce tasty, not overly-salted dishes.
With satisfied tummies, we took a mototaxi back to the touristy part of town, to check out the Plaza de Armas and the tourist information centre. Following the advice provided to us, we reserved a driver for tomorrow to visit Maras and Moray, then walked over to the Palacio de Huayna Capac to see the preserved ruins of an ancient palace. The best part about the archaeological site was the lack of people - it was nice to visit a place that was quiet and away from the traffic.
By the time we finished exploring, it was already past sunset, so we grabbed a few supplies for tomorrow, a quick bite to eat, then headed back to the hotel.
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