Life as J

For my last few hours in Venice, I decided to eat. This was my alternate plan to exploring because it turned out to be a downpour. Granted, I was able to do a bit of wandering in the morning during a brief period of non-rain, when I discovered a farmer's market! It was interesting comparing the items they had for sale with what is normally sold in Vancouver. I think there's a better selection in Vancouver. While searching for eateries, I did get quite hungry and ended up picking up a few items for a "picnic" lunch from a grocery store (including some prosciutto - €2 for about 13 pieces). This provided me with enough energy to walk over to St. Mark's Square, despite the rain, to enjoy one last gelato. Finally, I stopped at the enotaca I came across on my first night in Venice and drank the night away (4 glasses of wine!) while snacking on a variety of cicchetta: Baccala' Cappuccina, Crema di Pistacchio, Salsa Tartara di Tonno e Cacao Amaro, Crema di Zucca R...

I tried my hardest not to set expectations too high for Venice - it's such an amazing city that I've heard so many positives about. However, there were people who said it was too crowded, or that the canal stank - so I figured it could turn into another disappointment. I'm pleased that it was everything I dreamed of - and more! The weather forecast predicted rain today, but it drizzled a bit in the morning then the clouds made way for sunshine! I took full advantage and bought a 12-hour vaporetto (a shuttle-ferry, as opposed to a shuttle-bus) pass, which allowed me unlimited rides within Venice and to the nearby islands, Murano and Burano, for €18. This turned out to be an awesome deal as I made at least 8 vaporetto trips, which would have cost me €56 if I'd bought individual tickets. How did I manage 8 trips in 12 hours? The first thing I did was go up and down the Grand Canal several times, marvelling at the façades of the palaces and bridges. The best way to ...

After a long day of hiking (Manarola-Corniglia-Vernazza capped off with an evening hike in Riomaggiore), a day of relaxation at the beaches in Monterosso seemed like a good idea to end my stay in Cinque Terre. A short train ride took me from Riomaggiore to Monterosso, then I did a short hike up to get a panoramic view of the town. Locals were very friendly, similar to Corniglia, and a police officer actually helped to point me in the right direction for the hike. Monterosso is divided into an old town and a new town, with a tunnel connecting them (or a short walk to the cemetery in the middle of the two halves). I spent most of my time in the old town as I heard it was a bit less busy than the new town, with a beach that is less frequented by tourists. My lazy afternoon was spent dining at a waterfront restaurant, savouring the best fish ravioli I've ever had in my life - served with shrimp and zucchini (maybe they put drugs in the olive oil?) Then just chilling at the beach....

As soon as I got to Cinque Terre, my pace slowed to match the relaxed rhythm of the Parco Nazionale delle Cinque Terre. It was very easy to rent an apartment because I arrived in the middle of the week - so I did as the guidebooks suggested and popped into a deli to ask, "Dove posso trovare una camera?" (Where can I find a room?) Granted, it really wasn't necessary to do that since there were signs in English all over the place advertising rooms for rent, but I figured a local might point me to someone that might not try to rip me off. For my first day, I had wanted to hike from Riomaggiore (the "first" town) to all 5 towns via the footpath that connects them. However, due to recent mudslides, that footpath was unfortunately closed. This did not mean I couldn't hike - there are other trails throughout the park - just that the route wouldn't be as direct. In hindsight, this turned out to be a blessing in disguise, but more on that later. Reading t...

As a pit stop on the way to Cinque Terre from Florence, I figured I'd see the Leaning Tower of Pisa. With no train reservations dictating my schedule, I could spend as much time as I wanted exploring the rest of the previous sea-trading power. The train from Florence to Pisa was a quick 1-hour ride, and it was easy enough to get oriented with clear signage to the tourist information office, where I picked up a useful map. Walking for a few minutes, I came across a deli that was selling porchetta - reminding me of the deli I enjoyed in Florence and the fact that I hadn't tried porchetta yet! The sandwich was quite a bit larger than I expected, but with less meat... so lots of bread to fill you up. The porchetta itself was seasoned well, and very different from what I've had in North America - no crispiness because there was almost no discernable fatty bits, only the leaner portion of the belly. Onward to the Tower! As anyone can guess, the Leaning Tower is a magnet f...

For the last gallery visit, I went to Galleria degli Uffizi. A bit of background from the tourist guide: In 1581, Francesco de'Medici decided to gather his family's extraordinary collection of Italian and European paintings under one roof. This collection includes works by Botticelli (The Birth of Venus and Primavera), Michelangelo (Holy Family), Leonardo da Vinci, Raphael, Giotto, Caravaggio, and many other masters of art. I made an online reservation, and like the Borghese Gallery, I had to line-up to pick up my ticket (and pay). Judging by the size of the line without reservations, looks like planning ahead saved me once again! With my ticket in hand, I was in the gallery within a few minutes. Following the signs (and other visitors), I explored an exhibition of Rembrandt (and Morandi) drawings first. These showed the artist's skill in rendering portraits, still life, and landscapes through etching, drypoint, and engraving. The past few days, all the two-dimensio...

After non-stop walking since I arrived in Europe, I figured I'd take a day just to rest my weary feet. That mentality didn't last too long though - the gorgeous sunshine tempted me out of laziness and I let myself wander over to the Basilica di Santa Maria Novella. Santa Maria is quite the celebrity in Florence, so I thought paying a visit to the Church and Museum would be appropriate. According to the information guide, in 1219, twelve Dominican friars led by Fra Giovanni da Salerno came from Bologna and 2 years later obtained as their Florentine dwelling the church of Santa Maria delle Vigne, outside the city walls. The much larger church today started construction in 1279, concluded by the mid 1300s. Considering how old the church is, it has been kept in fantastic condition - the marble floors, external walls, and interior decorations were all spectacular to behold. A lot of people recommend visiting churches in Europe because they contain so much beautiful art. The ...

Buon giorno, Firenze! After taking a crack-of-dawn train from Rome, I rushed over to the Accademia Gallery in order to make it to my 9:00am reservation. (Yes, in hindsight, it might have been better to make the reservation a bit later, but I was hoping to avoid the larger crowds in the afternoon. I do remember trying to postpone the reservation one day, but a lot of museums/attractions are closed on Mondays.) I was happy to see that the Accademia included a museum of musical instruments! Since I didn't a chance to see the museum in Rome, I got pretty excited when I saw the signs in the Accademia, and it was a decent collection. Most of the instruments were from Grand Prince Ferdinando de Medici's Cherubini collection, which included a quintet of Stradivari pieces with an unmodified "Medici" viola - which has since been phased out of the string family. There was also a harpsichord and a pianoforte - the precursor to the modern-day piano. The gallery also cont...

For my last day in Rome, I headed first to the Borghese Gallery. As I mentioned in my trip preparations, part of my fascination with Italy is due to my studies of Renaissance art. The Borghese Gallery is known as the "queen of all private collections in the world," with exhibits from Titian, Bernini, Correggio, Caravaggio, and Canova. Again, I was thankful I made reservations in advance because if I had not, they were only selling tickets for next Wednesday (today was Saturday). But I learned a few things... First, the online reservation (even if you already paid) does not count as your ticket! I still had to line-up, and the ticket office only opens at 9:00am, so because I made a reservation for 9:00am, I had to get there early to be one of the first in line. Also, I had to watch for line cutters - it reminded me of China the way everyone was trying to shove their way to the front. Second, I would have called in my reservation instead of making it online. I thought...

A visit to Rome is not complete without a trip to Vatican City - center of the Catholic universe and home of the Pope. I'd heard so many things about the vast exhibits in the Vatican Museum and the grandeur of St. Peter's Basilica that I was really psyched to spend a whole day exploring the tiniest country in the world. Luckily I made a reservation for the Vatican Museum - when I arrived at the entrance very soon after it opened, there was already a giant line-up which I was able to skip! As soon as I stepped into the Museum, I immediately felt as if I was in a royal building - polished marble, immaculate, and brightly lit hallways greeted me even before I approached the ticket booth. In order to control crowds, the (one-way) path through the museum is well-marked and guides you through all exhibits, saving the best for last: the Sistine Chapel. As I wandered through the various collections - sculptures, tapestries, maps, entire rooms, contemporary art - I was surprised at ...

The sun was out in full force for my exploration of Ancient Rome - I hit the Colosseum, Roman Forum, Palatine Hill, Capitoline Hill, and the Spanish Steps today. After a full day, I'm thoroughly exhausted, but I will say that the ruins in Rome are extremely impressive... even more so than Pompeii, in my opinion. It was interesting seeing the Colosseum, but after the amphitheater in Pompeii, I wasn't as awestruck. When I walked around the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill... that was amazing. It's mind-boggling how they managed to discover all those ancient buildings and the intricate arches! Looking at the Arch of Titus up close showed detailed carvings preserved since 70 A.D. Compared to the single-storey houses in Pompeii, the excavations in the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill have partial and complete multi-storey structures! If you love architecture and archaeology, Italy is awaiting... Besides the hours spent in Ancient Rome, I also decided to check out the shopping ...

I arrived in Rome via the Intercity train (operated by Trenitalia) today and my first impression after stepping out of the train station was, "Wow, it's crowded!" There were people everywhere, and I suppose that part of town isn't the most glamorous, so it was a bit grittier and noisier than I was expecting. One good thing was that there were a few well-placed signs near the train station for guidance, so I was able to find my bearings quite quickly and get to my hotel without making a wrong turn anywhere. Similar to Vienna, there were plenty of buildings that caught my eye because of their architecture - it gives such a regal, elegant feel to the city. Granted, Vienna seemed like a cleaner city - maybe because there was less traffic, and fewer people. After I settled into my room (which was an upgrade from my accommodations in Sorrento - with the exception of the gorgeous sea view), I decided to grab my daily dose of gelato and go exploring. The gelato was not ex...

Due to rough seas, I opted to tour the Amalfi Coast instead of taking the boat to see Capri - at least this gives me a reason to come back to Sorrento! Driving along the coast was gorgeous - the wind was strong but rain never came, so the sun shone for the entire day. This meant views from the bus were spectacular - the water glistened blue and green, waves breaking along the shore without interruption. I guess without wide, expansive beaches, there are no swimmers and not a lot of boats travelling in the waters. The road hugged the mountains, similar to the Sea to Sky highway from Vancouver to Whistler, except much narrower. At every corner, the bus would honk a few times just in case a motorist wanted to careen around the corner - which almost happened a couple of times! Luckily, the bus drivers are extremely skilled - they have a language based on beeping their horns - and there are rules of the road that everyone obeys so people take turns in both directions driving through n...

Today was another gorgeous day of sunshine in Sorrento and felt like a day for relaxation and eating. Highlights included a leisurely meal at Ristorante Delfino on the water by Marina Grande, strolling through the Lemon Grove Garden, and meeting various people - tourists as well as locals. First - the eating. The meal at Delfino was amazing - enjoyed on the patio in the middle of the marina. I started off with a glass of house white wine and fresh bread with a touch of local olive oil. Then, the appetizer came - Frittura di alici (fried fresh anchovies) and the portion looked huge! Miraculously, every bit of fish disappeared quickly after a couple of squirts of lemon juice... a combination of hunger and perfectly cooked anchovies. More fish followed (Sorrento is famous for their seafood) for the main course - the recommended Orata alla griglia (grilled sea bream). When I saw other tables getting their main courses, waiters brought out plates with no fanfare; but for my order, they ...

After safely arriving in Sorrento by train from Vienna, the first order of business was to visit the ancient ruins of Pompeii. Taking the Circumvesuviana train, getting there only takes about half an hour, and it is a pleasant enough journey assuming you watch your belongings and don't run into any pickpockets. Luckily, I managed to avoid any incidents and was able to focus my attention on the city of Pompeii. A brief history: Pompeii was an ancient Roman city that was destroyed and buried under tons of ash and pumice in the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD. When the city was discovered more than a thousand years later, it was found to be well-preserved because of the lack of air and moisture underneath the ash. When I passed through the main gates into Pompeii, I was in awe. It was absolutely astounding to think I was standing on the same streets that someone else had used thousands of years earlier, and it's almost exactly the same now as it was then. Not only that...

After looking at the maps, I figured out that I was wrong - I did not cycle along the Danube River. That was just an offshoot of the Danube River, called the Danube Canal. Well, that had to be rectified! Lessons learned - the real Danube River is further from the Innerstadt than I thought, rental bikes can be pleasant to ride, and gloves make a huge difference! In Vienna, the city bikes are managed by an automated system, so you can pick whichever bike is available at the rack, swipe your credit card, enter your password, and away you go. The first time I tried this, I was too eager to cycle and failed to notice that all bicycles were not created equally! This time, I scouted out the bikes, tested the brakes of each one, checked the tire pressure, and figured out how to adjust the seat height - all efforts resulting in a much better ride. I also got myself a makeshift pair of cycling gloves (from the Viennese equivalent of a dollar store) to combat the wind. Riding along the Danube R...

A blizzard hit Vienna today - so perhaps a museum day? Otherwise, save the museums for Italy, and continue the outdoor activities to experience a true European winter day! Yup, the latter, and no cycling. I headed far away from the Innerstadt to check out the Schloss Schönbrunn Gardens. The Lonely Planet guidebook suggested that the gardens would be appealing no matter what the season - I think after my visit today, I'd hazard a guess that summertime beats wintertime hands down. Granted, the stone sculptures were beautiful - stark figures standing tall in the snow-covered grounds - but all the greenery was brown except for those hardy, coniferous trees. Did I mention it was snowing and cold? Luckily, there were two cafes open - and I warmed up in both! The first was the Hofbackstube Bakery, where they run a "Strudelshow" every hour, demonstrating how to make the traditional Viennese Apfelstrudel (apple strudel). I thought the baker was extremely enthusiastic and r...

Easter Monday is celebrated as a national holiday in Austria, so the banks were closed yesterday. This meant today was my chance to try exchanging those USD traveller's cheques. I did try checking the exchange rates at the airport and currency exchange booths, but they all seemed to be offering terrible rates. The bank rate was much better, and I found out their commission is different if you're exchanging cash (compared to traveller's cheques). Apparently, the commission for cash is higher by approximately 1.2% of the amount being exchanged. So, I was quite pleased to have the teller quote me a lower rate once I produced my traveller's cheques. After I was done at the bank, my next task was to find a grocery store to get some hand lotion. I found some on the other side of the Danube (since I was headed that way to cycle) - and had some fun comparing prices and products to what we have in Canada. The prices are actually pretty similar for most things (even Ricola, w...

Since I arrived in Vienna around breakfast, I thought the first day in the city would be slower paced, to account for jet lag and lack of energy from travelling. But walking around trying to find food, and seeing the history preserved in all the buildings inspired me to continue exploring. My top priority was food - so I stopped at every restaurant, checking out their breakfast offerings. I came across a Starbucks and was somewhat surprised, somewhat comforted to see that they maintained the same menu and almost the same prices. Of course, with the prefix being € instead of $, that meant all prices were inflated. I found a McDonald's as well, and didn't notice the prices because their menu was different - including a "Hamburger Royal" and "McCountry". They also seemed to have much better options for dessert - but I didn't stick aroung too long due to stomach rumblings. I eventually gave up my search and settled on a small pastry shop (future days, my b...

I finally made it to Vienna! The flight schedule was pretty grueling, but I learned a few things - the neck pillow was much more comfortable when not fully inflated, ear plugs are your ticket to blissful sleep when there are crying  babies beside you, and airport lounge access is amazing. Being able to stop for a bit in the lounge at London Heathrow airport to shower, eat, and relax a bit was exactly what I needed before continuing my travels. Oh, and sipping some Queen-approved ginger ale for free didn't hurt either. Free WiFi is also not a given! I became so used to being in WiFi zones almost all the time, but this is unfortunately not the case everywhere. Everything costs money! So I flew to London first, then to Frankfurt. When in Germany, you can't have a meal without beer. I made the most of my layover in the land of giant steins, and had a tall glass of wheat ale (surprisingly refreshing) alongside a sinfully fatty piece of roast pork belly. That gave me fuel to ...

After my last post, I realized I missed a few things! Funds In addition to planning my itinerary and making the necessary reservations for hotels and attractions, I had to make sure I had enough money to last all 4 weeks.  I calculated a rough daily budget based on accommodation, food, and incidentals (e.g. attraction fees), and came up with a worst-case estimate.  Obviously, I wasn't going to carry thousands of Euros in cash - that would just make me a target for those petty thieves (more on them later)!  Therefore, I devised a strategy that combined funds from a credit card, traveller's cheques, and cash. First - the credit card.  Most credit cards will charge (in addition to the currency conversion) a foreign transaction fee which is 2.5%.  However, there are cards that do not charge this extra 2.5% - the one that I ended up getting was the Amazon.ca card offered by Chase.  An added bonus for this particular Visa is that you earn 1% cashback, whi...

Exciting times – I’ve been preparing for a month-long Europe trip and it’s almost here! If you’ve been thinking of planning a long vacation, hopefully you’ll find this helpful. Ever since I was in high school, I’ve dreamt about visiting Europe – Italy in particular – to experience the amazing art and culture that were borne out of the Renaissance. I knew that if I were to plan a trip, I would have to block off a good chunk of time in order to avoid a hectic run-around tour. Therefore, when the opportunity arose to take a 4-week vacation, those dreams became reality. First, I had to decide where to go – after chatting with one of my friends who had studied in Italy, I came up with a list of cities/places to explore: Cinque Terre, Florence & Pisa, Rome, Sorrento (Capri & Pompeii), and Venice. After studying the geography of Italy, I realized that Austria was a bordering country and I could add Vienna – rich in arts (music especially)! With a time budget of 3-4 nights per stop...