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Lima: Day 3

We started the day with errands and the historic center, then ended with luxury. Let's start at the beginning! 

Laundry is a little different in Lima - unlike other cities where you might have self-serve laundry machines and the need for a lot of coins, there are laundry services instead. In Lima, you drop off your dirty laundry at a lavanderia and can expect to pick up your clean clothes a couple of days later, or the next day if you choose express service (keeping in mind that most places close on Sundays). We needed a service that was a bit quicker and, if necessary, open on Sundays since today was a Saturday, and we'll be flying out of Lima on Monday. Luckily, we found a place pretty close to our hotel that offered same-day service - when we dropped off our clothes, we were able to tell them what clothes shouldn't be tumbled dry, and take a video to serve as a record of inventory. They spoke pretty good English and were super helpful, guiding us through the local process.

Once we had laundry all sorted out, we headed to the historic center via Uber. We ended up choosing to Uber instead of taking the express bus because the bus looked extremely packed, and the Uber was estimated to take around the same travel time. Due to heavy traffic on the weekends, it was a bit of a wait to get a confirmed driver - but we weren't in a rush, so we waited about 10 minutes to get connected to a driver, and made it a bit easier by choosing a destination just outside the ultra busy, touristy streets. 

Strolling through the historic center was crowded and a little more decrepit in certain areas - but you could see way more street vendors, and throngs of tourists and tour groups at the key monuments and landmarks. The brilliant afternoon sun was pretty intense, and likely dispersed the crowds as the day wore on. Fresh fruit and juices were really helpful in beating the heat - vendors selling both were everywhere, with recorded rapid-fire promotions blaring from speakers on their carts, competing for customers. 

We ended up visiting multiple plazas, admiring the well-preserved architecture, walking along Jirón de la Unión, poking our heads in some of the stores, and witnessing the crowd outside a celebrity wedding! Lunch was had in Mercado Central, on the edges of Chinatown, before we had a brief respite from the sun in a coffee shop. I think the best surprise in the historic center was a visit to the Casa de la Literatura Peruana, near the Lima Main Square - there was a gorgeous set of murals outside the building, and a very comprehensive, beautifully-designed exhibition inside the building showcasing the evolution of literature and culture through Peru's history. It was all free, and made us wish they had a gift shop so we could have purchased something to support their efforts!

After all the exploring, we headed back to the hotel to freshen up for our special dinner at Kjolle (pronounced Koi'-yay) in Barranco. This was something I was looking forward to since I made the reservation months ago - a once-in-a-lifetime experience, dining at one of the best restaurants in the world, run by the top female chef in the world. From when we were escorted into the restaurant, through each of the nine courses, the level of care and attention to detail was incredible. The pacing of the meal, explanations of each item served, knowledge and patience of the waitstaff in answering questions in both Spanish and English, careful pairings of drinks with the different flavours, gorgeous ceramic and wooden tableware, attention to detail to make sure we were comfortable (wiping away crumbs, resetting our napkin if we left the table)... it's clear everyone had the same goal: to make sure we had an unforgettable night. In total, they served us an astounding 19 different dishes! The finishing touches at the end of the meal were so thoughtful - souvenirs and a last palette-cleansing, stomach-soothing dessert to send us home, along with the security staff watching out for our ride back to the hotel. It ended up being a 3+ hour meal, and something we'll be talking about for many years to come. 

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