The mission for today was to relax and have fun!
First, there was a buffet breakfast in the hotel, which thankfully had a decent selection of Japanese foods to choose from. One thing new that was served: pumpkin! The miso soup was plain... but for some reason, it tasted slightly fermented? Perhaps I was anticipating the sake that would be had later...
After breakfast, I made use of my rail pass to visit the Arashiyama bamboo grove. At first, I wasn't sure I'd be able to find my way because there were tourists walking in all directions in the area, seemingly lost. Eventually, I did end up on the right road and soon found myself surrounded by a forest of tall green stalks! As I walked through the alley, I slowed down to listen as the wind blew through the bamboo and made gentle music - almost like nature's chimes, as the hollow stalks swayed and bumped each other. (I also briefly recalled scenes from House of Flying Daggers.)
At the edge of the bamboo grove, I was about to turn back, but then I saw lots of movement towards the Tenryuji Temple, so I continued with the flow. I'm glad I did! I think I remember reading that some of the best gardens in Japan are within temple grounds - this proved it. The temple itself was spread amongst several buildings, but the most attractive component was definitely the beauty surrounding it. There were many species of blossoming trees in the gardens, bordered by another bamboo forest. Strolling through the many paths, I felt lucky to have come this way, and appreciated the perfect geometry of the temple halls, the rock garden beside the main hall, and the showers of cherry blossoms that came with every gust of wind.
I could have spent more time just enjoying the serenity of the temple, but lunch was calling! A walk back to the train station and a couple of transfers to Fushimi-momoyama station dropped me into the heart of the Fushimi neighborhood of Kyoto, home to many sake breweries. As recommended, I headed straight to a restaurant run by the Yamamoto Honke brewery - Torisei (鳥せい). To my utter horror, I was greeted with locked doors! A sign on the doors said the restaurant was closed for all Mondays in April. Ah well, luckily, I managed to find another eatery a few steps down the same street - Tsuki no Kurabito. Once inside, I looked around to see what the other patrons had ordered and settled on a beef lunch set. Bad luck turned to good as the food came out: a bowl of fresh tofu to start, then an elaborate lunch box complete with a pot sitting on top of a small flame! There was so much food: beef with rice, tempura, chawanmushi, and miso soup. It was all necessary though, to line my tummy with some padding before embarking on my sake tasting adventure.
First, I walked south towards what I thought was the Gekkeikan brewery. The building did have a sake tasting room, so I figured I was in the right spot. Only when the menu came and the offerings were from many different breweries, did I realize I may have made a mistake, but no need to give up the seat! Might as well taste more sake! I ended up having the Ginjoshu sake from Houshuku, the Junmai-Ginjo Momo no Shizuku sake from Hinodezakari, and the Keicho Koban sake from Keicho. I didn't have any expectations prior to the tasting, but afterwards, I thought there was some similarities between the 3 in that they were all around the same sweetness and were quite smooth.
After having the three cups of sake, I was feeling a bit warm, but still good to go! So, I tried to look for the real Gekkeikan brewery. Instead, I found a sake museum. With the sun shining brilliantly, I couldn't bear to waste the afternoon indoors, so I continued exploring the area and found the Horikawa River. I took that as my boundary and switched directions to walk north towards the Fujioka brewery that was also recommended. I became a bit more self-conscious walking around with a "red" face, but soon found the aforementioned brewery and slipped safely into the tasting bar. Here, I was able to try "unrefined" sake and compare it with "refined" sake. I tasted a lot more acidity in the "unrefined" sake, and was much more appreciative of the rigorous sake-making process after tasting the "refined" sake. After I was finished at Fujioka, I stepped outside into the sun and immediately recoiled at the bright light, realizing why drinking usually occurs at night. It really doesn't pay to be red-faced and dilated in broad daylight.
From there, I tried to stay indoors, stopping at a ramen shop first, then at a takoyaki stall, and then for some cream puffs at Beard Papa's... yes, all that sake made my appetite even more voracious than normal! I eventually made my way back to the hotel, safe and sound!
Tomorrow will be another exciting adventure - a cherry blossom festival in Takayama!
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