Venice

I tried my hardest not to set expectations too high for Venice - it's such an amazing city that I've heard so many positives about. However, there were people who said it was too crowded, or that the canal stank - so I figured it could turn into another disappointment. I'm pleased that it was everything I dreamed of - and more!

The weather forecast predicted rain today, but it drizzled a bit in the morning then the clouds made way for sunshine! I took full advantage and bought a 12-hour vaporetto (a shuttle-ferry, as opposed to a shuttle-bus) pass, which allowed me unlimited rides within Venice and to the nearby islands, Murano and Burano, for €18. This turned out to be an awesome deal as I made at least 8 vaporetto trips, which would have cost me €56 if I'd bought individual tickets.

How did I manage 8 trips in 12 hours? The first thing I did was go up and down the Grand Canal several times, marvelling at the façades of the palaces and bridges. The best way to tour the Grand Canal is by boat/gondola/vaporetto because there are only a few spots where you can walk along the main canal - I could have spent all day travelling between Piazzale Roma (the bus station vaporetto stop) and San Zaccaria (the last vaporetto stop along the canal)! When I stopped at St. Mark's Square for the first time, I was overcome with emotion - I'd seen the Campanile tower and Doge's Palace on TV before, and imagined myself travelling there, but actually stepping onto the Square, walking around, seeing the Bridge of Sighs in person... I had the biggest smile in all of Venice plastered on my face for the entire day. I can make that claim because there was no one else walking around with a perma-smile!

Following my Grand Canal joyrides, I decided to catch a vaporetto to Murano to see Venetian glass making. From what others had told me, I expected Muurano to be a tourist trap - nothing much to see, just a quick tour to check out the glass. I ended up watching a live demonstration at one of the glass factories, which was actually quite interesting! The whole process of creating the shape of the end product is so quick - it's the cooling process that takes time. Note that I did have to be smart about exiting the factory and shop to avoid spending money on overpriced souvenirs. Once I escaped the factory, I wandered the streets of Murano and found a couple of impressive glass sculptures - one was a comet glass star made by master glass maker Simone Cenedese for Chrismas 2007, the other seemed to be credited to a studio (or a shop?).

After finding my way to the right vaporetto stop on the island of Murano (which was a bit tricky without a proper map), I headed to Burano. As soon as I saw the island of Burano, I fell in love with it - every building on the island is painted in bright colours, in contrast with its neighbours, creating a bouquet of colour on every street. Combine that with canals, and you have a "Kodak moment" at every turn. Wandering around the island, I couldn't stop taking photos because I wanted to capture everything. The claim to fame for Burano is lacemaking - and I was all set to support the local economy. But when I was chatting with one of the store owners, I asked if the products were made in Burano (because they were on sale for only a few euros). Her answer was comically honest - the products selling for a handful of euros are all machine-made; if it was made in Burano, there's no way they would sell it for so little!

Once I made it back to Venice, I followed some advice from one of the Canadians I met in Florence - to eat well and not get touristy fare, get lost in the Jewish Ghetto to find local gems. Done and done. Luckily for me, the vaporetto stop dropped me off in the area I needed to be. Then, I just trailed behind other people until I lost my orientation, and lo and behold, I found an enoteca (wine bar) humming with business despite the fact that it was a Sunday (a lot of eateries are closed on Sundays). Upon closer inspection, the clientele seemed to be mostly locals, filling the tables inside, and spilling out onto the street outside the establishment. Seemed like a winner to me, and it was! I dined like the locals and ordered a plate of cicchetta (various toppings on pieces of toasted bread) with a glass of prosecco. Even better - I shared a table with a few locals and made conversation with them trying to teach me Italian along the way!

With dinner done, the night had just begun. The magic in Venice continues after dark - at the old caffès lining St. Mark's Square. Lights make the area sparkle, and live music can be found at the finest coffeehouses. I headed to the most famous Venetian caffè - Caffè Florian - and found a 5-piece orchestra performing a program including classical pieces and pop hits to an appreciative audience. To sit down meant I'd be paying too much for coffee and dessert, but you only live once, right? It was worth it - I sat and enjoyed the music until midnight, when the clouds rolled back in and the rain started just as the caffè closed.